GIRL POWER – SUPREME STYLE AND BEAUTY
The most successful girl group of all time, The Supremes, were also one of the most glamorous of all time. Their
sales of more than 20 million records are outstanding
and remain second only to the Beatles for No1 hits.
A display at the V&A in London
shows the changing image of
The Supremes from the early days
when they were known as The
Primettes to the glamorous Hollywood designs they wore at the height of their fame, and look at their continuing stylistic influence on performers such as Beyoncé, Madonna and Kylie Minogue. Their beautifully groomed style was the epitome of black beauty of the age and helped change racial perceptions during the time of the American Civil Rights movement.
It was the 60s, time of political
turmoil in America and activists such as Malcolm X, Stokey Carmichael, Angela Davies and Martin Luther King were fighting the long battle for equal rights. Meanwhile, the trio, Diana Ross, Mary Wilson and Florence Ballard, had firmly established themselves as the
supreme girl power and one of
modern day music’s most powerful
and enduring cultural icons.
The Look
They were always beautifully dressed, highly groomed and elegant. Signed to the leading R&B label Motown, the whole Motown look appealed to a youthful record-buying audience within a system that had previously excluded African-Americans.
Berry Gordy, head of Motown instituted a special ‘Artist Development’ programme similar to the Hollywood charm schools of the thirties and forties. Maxine Powell gave lessons on the proper way to dress, eat, sit, walk and how to appear on television.
To hone dance and performance skills, legendary choreographer and dancer Cholly Atkins developed the slick dance routines that were the hallmark of Motown performances, and musician Maurice King handled music and on-stage patter.
The Costumes
As The Supremes graced more stages and television screens, their costumes became ever more glamorous and extravagant. Chiffon and velvet were replaced by skin tight sequined evening dresses to maximise their impact under strong studio lighting. Their trademark wigs were complemented by false eyelashes, big earrings and dramatic makeup as black cosmetics came of age.
The stage wardrobe of the Supremes was a major expense. Lavish outfits with beading and thousands of sequins could cost between one and two thousand dollars each in the 1960s (US$13-26,000 at current prices).
Gordy enlisted leading Hollywood designers such as Bob Mackie (who also designed for Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, Cher and Barbra Streisand) and Michael Travis to create glamorous and extravagant costumes fit for their international superstar status. n
The Story of the Supremes from the Mary Wilson Collection, at the V&A (020-7942 2966), until Oct 19.
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